Niacinamide

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a water-soluble vitamin that supports skin barrier function, regulates sebum production, minimises pore appearance, reduces redness, and evens skin tone. It is one of the most researched and best-tolerated skincare ingredients.

• Strengthens the skin barrier by increasing ceramide and fatty acid production. • Regulates oil production — ideal for oily and combination skin. • Reduces the appearance of enlarged pores (regulates sebum + improves elasticity). • Fades hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory marks (works differently from Vitamin C). • Soothes redness and inflammation, making it great for acne and rosacea.

The sweet spot is 2–5% for most people. At 10%, niacinamide can cause flushing or irritation in sensitive individuals. Start low and increase if needed. Niacinamide is effective even at 2% — higher is not always better.

• Use AM or PM — niacinamide is stable in light and works well in both routines. • Apply after water-based serums and before moisturiser. • Pairs well with virtually everything: Vitamin C, retinol, peptides, AHAs, BHAs. • The myth that niacinamide + Vitamin C cancels each other out is false — modern studies show they work synergistically.

All skin types can benefit from niacinamide. It is especially valuable for oily/acne-prone skin, rosacea (anti-inflammatory and barrier repair), and anyone wanting to address uneven tone or texture. It is very well tolerated by sensitive skin.

Niacinamide is one of the most clinically studied topical skincare ingredients: Hyperpigmentation: A randomised controlled trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology (2002) compared 5% niacinamide to 2% hydroquinone for melasma. Both groups showed significant improvement, but niacinamide caused fewer side effects. The mechanism: niacinamide reduces the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes — completely different from tyrosinase inhibitors like vitamin C. Barrier function: A 2000 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology demonstrated that topical niacinamide significantly increased ceramide, free fatty acid, and cholesterol production in the stratum corneum after 4 weeks. Pore size and sebum: A 2006 Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy study showed that 2% niacinamide significantly reduced sebum production and pore size appearance after 8 weeks. Anti-ageing: A 2004 study in Experimental Dermatology showed that 5% niacinamide reduced fine lines, wrinkles, and skin yellowing after 12 weeks compared to placebo.

When selecting a niacinamide product, consider the following: Concentration: Clinical studies show efficacy starting at 2%. 5% is the most studied and the sweet spot for most benefits. Above 5%, some individuals experience flushing due to niacin formation — harmless but uncomfortable. 10% is not necessarily more effective. Formulation pH: Niacinamide is most stable between pH 5–7. Avoid combining it with very low pH ingredients in the same product (Vitamin C at pH <3.5), though separating into AM and PM routines makes this a non-issue. Form: Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is the water-soluble form. It is distinct from nicotinic acid (niacin) and nicotinamide riboside — these have different applications and are not the same thing in skincare. Best product formats: Lightweight serums (5% concentration) absorb quickly and can be used under all other products. Moisturisers with embedded niacinamide provide the dual benefit of barrier support plus active effects. What to look for: 'Niacinamide' listed in the top half of the INCI ingredient list for meaningful concentration.

Beyond barrier repair and brightening, niacinamide has multiple mechanisms relevant to acne: Sebum regulation: By reducing sebum excretion (demonstrated at just 2% concentration), niacinamide addresses one of acne's root causes without the dryness and irritation of other sebum-controlling actives like benzoyl peroxide. Anti-inflammatory action: Niacinamide inhibits the inflammatory response without affecting healthy cellular function. This directly reduces the redness and swelling of papules and pustules. Antimicrobial support: A 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed 4% niacinamide gel was equivalent to 1% clindamycin gel for inflammatory acne reduction at 8 weeks — without any risk of antibiotic resistance. Post-acne marks: Niacinamide's melanosome transfer inhibition makes it one of the most effective ingredients for fading post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — the dark marks left after acne clears. Routine placement: For acne-prone skin, apply niacinamide in both AM and PM routines. Use after BHA exfoliant in PM. Combine with ceramide moisturiser to support barrier while treating acne.