How to Build a Skincare Routine

Every effective skincare routine has three essential steps: Cleanse → Treat → Moisturise + Protect (AM). In the PM, replace SPF with an optional treatment step. Start simple and add active ingredients only when your skin has adjusted.

Morning: A gentle water-based cleanser or just water (if your skin is dry). Evening: A double cleanse — oil-based cleanser first (removes SPF, makeup, excess sebum), followed by a water-based cleanser. This is the most important step for preventing breakouts.

After cleansing, apply your treatment serums in order of consistency (thinnest to thickest). Vitamin C is a great choice for the AM due to its antioxidant + photoprotection synergy with SPF. Niacinamide can also be used here.

This is where you use your active ingredients. Retinol (anti-ageing) or BHA (exfoliation) are common PM treatments. Never combine retinol and exfoliating acids in the same session — alternate nights instead.

Moisturiser locks in all previous steps and provides hydration. Choose a formula that suits your skin type: gel-based for oily skin, cream-based for dry skin. Even oily skin needs moisturiser — skipping it can trigger excess oil production.

SPF 50+ broad-spectrum every single day, regardless of weather. This is the single most important anti-ageing step. UV damage is cumulative and irreversible. Reapply every 2 hours if exposed to direct sunlight.

The skincare industry profits from complexity. The science supports simplicity. A three-product routine done consistently outperforms a ten-product routine with poor consistency. The minimum viable routine: AM: Gentle cleanser (or water rinse) → SPF 50+ PM: Cleanser → Moisturiser That's it. Two products in the morning, two at night. This is all the evidence-based minimum you need for healthy skin maintenance and UV protection. When to add actives: Once you've established a consistent 4-product base and your skin is calm and hydrated, add one active at a time: • Acne concern: Add salicylic acid (BHA) 2–3x/week to PM routine • Anti-ageing concern: Add retinol 2–3x/week to PM routine after 4–6 weeks stable on base • Brightening: Add vitamin C serum to AM routine • Hyperpigmentation: Add niacinamide serum to either routine The 'one at a time' rule: Every time you introduce a new product, your skin needs 4–6 weeks to adjust. Introducing two actives simultaneously makes it impossible to identify which is causing a reaction. Skin cycling approach (popularised by Dr. Whitney Bowe): • Night 1: Exfoliant (AHA or BHA) • Night 2: Retinoid • Nights 3–4: Recovery (just moisturiser and barrier repair) • Repeat This provides the benefits of both actives without compounding irritation, and is especially useful for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

Different skin types have different needs within the same framework. Oily / acne-prone skin: AM: Foaming gel cleanser → Niacinamide serum → Lightweight oil-free moisturiser → SPF 50+ (gel or matte formula) PM: Double cleanse → BHA toner (2–3x/week) or niacinamide → Lightweight moisturiser Dry / dehydrated skin: AM: Cream or milk cleanser → Hyaluronic acid serum → Rich ceramide moisturiser → SPF 50+ (moisturising formula) PM: Oil cleanser → Cream cleanser → Facial oil or retinol (2x/week) → Rich barrier cream Sensitive / reactive skin: AM: Gentle low-pH cleanser → Centella asiatica or madecassoside serum → Ceramide moisturiser → Mineral SPF (zinc oxide) PM: Gentle cleanser → Niacinamide → Ceramide-rich moisturiser. No actives until skin is consistently calm. Combination skin: AM: Gel cleanser → Vitamin C serum → Gel moisturiser on T-zone, richer moisturiser on cheeks → SPF 50+ PM: Double cleanse → BHA 2–3x/week → Niacinamide → Gel-cream moisturiser The golden rule for all types: introduce one new product at a time, wait 4 weeks, and patch test first on your jaw or inner arm before full application.

The standard rule is to apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency, and from lowest to highest pH. Full AM sequence: 1. Cleanser 2. Toner (if used — optional; look for alcohol-free, hydrating formulas) 3. Vitamin C serum or other antioxidant (lowest pH step) 4. Wait 10–15 minutes for C to absorb 5. Niacinamide or peptide serum 6. Eye cream (if used — apply before heavier products) 7. Hyaluronic acid (apply to damp skin) 8. Moisturiser 9. SPF 50+ (final step, not under moisturiser) Full PM sequence: 1. Oil cleanser (if wearing SPF or makeup) 2. Water cleanser 3. Exfoliant (AHA/BHA — 2–3x/week maximum) 4. Treatment serum (retinol — on non-exfoliant nights) 5. Niacinamide or peptide serum 6. Hyaluronic acid to damp skin 7. Moisturiser 8. Facial oil (optional, as final PM step) Common ordering mistake: applying SPF before moisturiser. SPF must be the last step before makeup — applying products on top of SPF dilutes and disrupts the protective film.