Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) derived from willow bark. Unlike AHAs which are water-soluble, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate deep into pores and dissolve the sebum and dead skin cells that cause congestion and breakouts.

Salicylic acid works by breaking down the intercellular "glue" (desmosomes) that holds dead skin cells together. This exfoliating action helps unclog pores, reduce blackheads and whiteheads, and smooth skin texture. Its anti-inflammatory properties also help calm active breakouts.

Ideal for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin types. Particularly effective for treating blackheads, whiteheads, and congested pores. Those with dry or sensitive skin should use lower concentrations (0.5%–1%) and limit frequency.

• Start with 2–3 times per week, gradually increasing to daily use as tolerated. • Apply after cleansing and before moisturising. • Leave on for 30 seconds before layering other products. • Use in your PM routine or AM if not using vitamin C. • Always follow with SPF 50+ — BHAs increase photosensitivity.

• 0.5% – Gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin. • 1% – Moderate exfoliation for normal/combination skin. • 2% – Standard effective concentration for acne treatment. • Higher concentrations (10–30%) are used for chemical peels by professionals only.

• Do not use with other exfoliating acids (AHAs, other BHAs) in the same routine. • Avoid combining with benzoyl peroxide — can cause irritation and cancel each other out. • Retinol can be used on alternate nights, not the same night. • Benzoyl peroxide can oxidise and degrade retinol — use at different times.

Salicylic acid (BHA) and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) both exfoliate skin, but through different mechanisms: Solubility: BHA is oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate into pores and dissolve sebum. AHAs are water-soluble and primarily work on the skin surface. Depth of action: Salicylic acid can reach inside the follicle — uniquely effective for blackheads and whiteheads. AHAs work mainly on the stratum corneum surface. Anti-inflammatory properties: Salicylic acid has direct anti-inflammatory properties (it's related to aspirin), making it better for inflamed acne. AHAs are primarily exfoliating without strong anti-inflammatory action. Skin type suitability: • Oily, acne-prone, congested pores → salicylic acid is the primary choice • Dry, sun-damaged, hyperpigmented, texture issues → AHAs preferred • Combination skin → consider BHA on oilier areas, AHA elsewhere on alternating nights • Sensitive skin → low-concentration lactic acid (5%) is most tolerable Can you use both? Yes, but on separate nights. Alternating nights (BHA Mon/Wed/Fri, AHA Tue/Thu) is a common approach for combination skin.

Blackheads (open comedones): Salicylic acid is first-line treatment. 2% BHA applied daily dissolves the sebum and dead cell plug clogging the pore. Results visible in 4–8 weeks. A BHA leave-on toner is more effective than a wash-off cleanser for blackheads. Whiteheads (closed comedones): Also respond well to BHA. The oil-solubility allows it to reach these sealed follicles. Consistent daily use over 8–12 weeks typically clears most comedonal acne. Inflamed papules: BHA helps reduce inflammation and prevent new papules, but active inflamed pimples are better treated with benzoyl peroxide as the primary treatment. BHA is best used as preventative. Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis): Salicylic acid is generally Malassezia-safe and can help remove dead skin cells. However, antifungal treatment is needed as the primary approach. Back and body acne: BHA body sprays or washes are effective for trunk acne. Apply after showering to dry skin for best penetration. Leave-on body sprays with 2% salicylic acid are highly effective for bacne and chest acne.