Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as signalling molecules in the skin. They communicate with skin cells to perform specific functions — primarily stimulating collagen and elastin production. Different peptides have different functions, from anti-ageing to barrier repair.

• **Signal Peptides** – Tell skin cells to produce more collagen (e.g., Matrixyl, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4). • **Carrier Peptides** – Deliver trace minerals (like copper) to support enzyme functions (e.g., Copper Peptides GHK-Cu). • **Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides** – Mimic botox by relaxing facial muscles (e.g., Argireline). • **Enzyme-Inhibitor Peptides** – Slow down collagen breakdown.

Peptides are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. They are particularly beneficial for: • Mature skin needing collagen support. • Dehydrated skin needing barrier repair. • Anyone wanting preventative anti-ageing without irritation. • Post-procedure skin (laser, microneedling) to aid healing.

• Apply peptides to clean, damp skin before moisturiser. • Can be used both AM and PM. • Pairs well with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and ceramides. • Avoid using copper peptides and strong acids (AHAs/BHAs) in the same routine — they can degrade each other.

• 2–4 weeks: Improved hydration and skin plumpness. • 4–8 weeks: Visible reduction in fine lines. • 8–12 weeks: Firmer, more resilient skin. • Results are cumulative — consistent use is key. Benefits diminish after 4–6 weeks of discontinuation.

Not all peptides are created equal. What the strongest evidence supports: Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4): One of the most researched signal peptides. A 2005 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science showed Matrixyl stimulated collagen synthesis comparably to retinol without irritation. Human clinical studies demonstrated significant reduction in wrinkle depth after 2 months. Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3): A neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide that mimics Botox by inhibiting acetylcholine release, preventing muscle contraction and dynamic wrinkle formation. A 2002 study showed 10% argireline reduced wrinkle depth by 30% after 30 days. Efficacy is primarily around the eyes and forehead. Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu): Among the best-studied peptides in dermatology. Research in the Journal of Biomaterials Science shows GHK-Cu promotes collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan production while inhibiting collagen-degrading enzymes. Also has wound-healing properties. Caution: Do not combine copper peptides with strong acids — the acidic environment can remove the copper from the peptide, rendering it inactive.

Peptides work best when used consistently within a well-formulated routine. Layer order: Apply peptide serums after water-based toners and before moisturiser. Their molecular weight means they work best before heavier occlusive layers. AM or PM? Both are fine. Peptides are light-stable and do not increase photosensitivity. Using them twice daily maximises the signalling effect. Combination partners: • Hyaluronic acid: Hydration supports the skin environment where peptides work • Niacinamide: Complementary barrier-repair and anti-ageing benefits • Ceramides: Both support barrier integrity simultaneously • Avoid with copper peptides: Do not mix GHK-Cu with vitamin C or AHAs in the same step Timeline: Peptides don't produce overnight results. The collagen cycle takes 6–12 weeks. Take consistent before/after photos under the same lighting at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Budget note: Effective peptide serums range from affordable to luxury. Research shows peptide concentration matters more than price — look for serums with peptides listed in the first half of the ingredient list.