Hyaluronic Acid
The gold standard for skin hydration — how it works and how to use it
What Is Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring sugar molecule (glycosaminoglycan) in your skin that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Your body produces it naturally, but levels decline with age — by your 40s, you have roughly half the HA you had in your 20s. Despite its name, it is not an exfoliating acid like glycolic or salicylic acid. It is a humectant, meaning it draws moisture from the environment into your skin.
How Does It Work?
HA works on multiple layers depending on its molecular weight:
• **High molecular weight HA** forms a breathable film on the skin surface, providing immediate hydration and plumping.
• **Low molecular weight HA** penetrates deeper into the dermis, stimulating your skin's own HA production and providing long-term anti-aging benefits.
• **Sodium hyaluronate** is a salt form with a smaller molecular size, making it more stable and easier to absorb.
Multi-molecular formulas (containing multiple weights) provide both surface and deep hydration.
Who Should Use It?
HA is universally tolerated and ideal for:
• Dry or dehydrated skin needing intense moisture
• Aging skin showing fine lines and loss of volume
• Oily skin that needs hydration without heaviness
• Sensitive skin because HA is non-irritating and non-comedogenic
There are very few contraindications — HA is one of the safest skincare ingredients available.
How to Use It Correctly
**Apply HA to damp skin** — this is crucial. Because it is a humectant, it pulls water toward it. If applied to dry skin in a dry environment, it can actually pull moisture from the deeper layers of your skin outward, causing more dehydration.
Best practice:
• Apply to damp skin (after cleansing or spritzing with water)
• Follow with a moisturiser or facial oil to seal in the hydration
• Use AM and PM — HA is stable in both light and dark
• Concentration of 1–2% is optimal — higher is not necessarily better
What to Look For
• Multi-molecular HA formulas for both surface and deep hydration
• Sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid listed high in the ingredient list
• Products with 1–2% HA concentration
• Avoid formulas with drying alcohols (SD alcohol, denatured alcohol) high on the list
• Lightweight serums absorb better than heavy creams for oily skin
• Fragrance-free options for sensitive skin
Combining With Other Actives
HA pairs beautifully with almost everything:
• **Vitamin C** — hydrate while brightening
• **Retinol** — buffer irritation and support barrier
• **Niacinamide** — boost barrier function together
• **Peptides** — hydration + collagen support
• **Acids (AHA/BHA)** — use HA after acids to restore hydration
HA is essentially the most compatible ingredient in skincare.
The Dry Climate Problem and How to Fix It
One of the most common mistakes with hyaluronic acid is applying it in a dry climate without sealing it in.
The problem: HA is a humectant. It draws moisture toward it. In a humid environment, it draws moisture from the air into your skin. In a dry environment (cold climates, air-conditioned offices, heated rooms in winter), HA will draw moisture from the deeper layers of your skin outward — temporarily dehydrating you.
The fix: Always apply an occlusive or emollient moisturiser immediately after applying HA. Ceramide creams, shea-containing moisturisers, squalane, and even petroleum jelly work as the 'sealant' that locks the humectant layer in. Never let HA sit on dry skin without a sealant layer.
Practical routine in dry climates:
1. Cleanse
2. While skin is still slightly damp, apply HA serum
3. Within 60 seconds, apply ceramide moisturiser on top
4. Apply SPF (AM) or facial oil (PM) as final layer
Misting hack: Spray your face with thermal water before applying HA and again immediately after. Then apply moisturiser. This creates a more humid microenvironment for the HA to draw from.