Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It has the smallest molecular size of all AHAs, which allows it to penetrate the skin most effectively. It works on the skin's surface to exfoliate dead skin cells, brighten complexion, and stimulate collagen production.

• Exfoliates dead skin cells for smoother texture. • Reduces hyperpigmentation, sun damage, and melasma. • Stimulates collagen production for firmer, younger-looking skin. • Improves hydration by allowing better product penetration. • Fades acne scars and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Suitable for normal, combination, and ageing skin types. Those with darker skin tones should use lower concentrations and monitor for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Not recommended for very sensitive skin, active eczema, or rosacea.

• Start with 5% concentration, 1–2 times per week. • Apply to clean, dry skin after cleansing. • Do not leave on longer than directed — rinse off if using a wash-off formula. • Always use SPF 50+ daily during use. • Build up to nightly use over 4–6 weeks as tolerated.

Glycolic acid is the most potent but not always the best choice. Comparison: Glycolic Acid (smallest molecule, pH 3.5–4.0): Most penetrating of all AHAs. Best for anti-ageing, photoageing, collagen stimulation, hyperpigmentation. Not ideal for sensitive skin or rosacea. Effective at 5–10% leave-on. Lactic Acid (medium molecule): Gentler than glycolic due to larger molecular size. Also a humectant — draws water into the skin. Better tolerated by sensitive and dry skin. Best for dry skin, beginners, textural concerns. Effective at 5–12% leave-on. Mandelic Acid (largest molecule): The gentlest AHA option. Less penetration = less irritation. Also has mild antibacterial properties. Best for very sensitive skin, beginners, darker skin tones (lower risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Effective at 5–10% leave-on. Bottom line: If you're new to acids, start with lactic acid. If you have sensitive skin, try mandelic. Glycolic acid is the gold standard for experienced users focused on anti-ageing.

Glycolic acid is one of the most effective non-prescription ingredients for reducing hyperpigmentation. Mechanism: Glycolic acid accelerates shedding of pigmented surface skin cells, breaking up clusters of melanin in the upper epidermis. It also inhibits tyrosinase activity, reducing new melanin formation. Combined with retinol or vitamin C, the effect is additive. Clinical evidence: A 2010 study in the Journal of Dermatology compared 10% glycolic acid cream to tretinoin 0.05% cream for sun spots and found comparable efficacy after 12 weeks. A separate study showed 10–20% glycolic acid chemical peels improved melasma in 75% of patients after a series of 6 treatments. Important: For darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick III–VI), high-strength glycolic acid carries a risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Start with low concentrations (5%), consider mandelic acid if your skin is prone to PIH, and always use SPF 50+ diligently. Combination approach: For best results, combine glycolic acid (exfoliation) with vitamin C (tyrosinase inhibition) in the AM and niacinamide with retinol in the PM. Patience required: meaningful results take 8–16 weeks.