Squalane

Squalane is a hydrogenated version of squalene, a lipid naturally produced by human skin cells. It is a key component of the skin's natural sebum, making up approximately 10–12% of your skin's oils. Squalane is extremely stable, non-comedogenic, and suitable for all skin types — including oily and acne-prone.

• Squalene – The natural form produced by the body. It is unsaturated and prone to oxidation when exposed to air. • Squalane – The hydrogenated (stabilised) version used in cosmetics. It is fully saturated, extremely stable, and has a shelf life of 2+ years. • Most squalane today is plant-derived (from sugarcane or olives), making it vegan-friendly.

• Deeply hydrating without feeling greasy. • Non-comedogenic — does not clog pores. • Helps restore the skin barrier. • Has antioxidant properties that protect against environmental damage. • Regulates sebum production — paradoxically helps oily skin produce less oil.

• Apply after water-based serums and before heavier creams. • Use 2–3 drops for the face; warm between palms before patting in. • Can be mixed into moisturiser for extra hydration. • Suitable for both AM and PM routines. • Excellent for the oil cleansing method (first cleanse).

Squalane is one of the few ingredients that works for every skin type: • Dry skin – Provides intense hydration without irritation. • Oily skin – Regulates oil production; lightweight texture won't clog pores. • Sensitive skin – Mimics natural lipids, soothes irritation. • Acne-prone – Non-comedogenic, anti-inflammatory.

Squalane's origin matters both ethically and environmentally. Historical source — shark liver oil: Squalene was historically extracted from shark liver oil. Sharks have enormous livers rich in squalene, which they use for buoyancy. At peak demand, an estimated 3,000 sharks were killed to produce 1 tonne of squalene. Many shark species targeted for squalene are now conservation-listed. Modern plant-based sources: • Olive-derived squalane: Extracted from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil. The traditional plant source. • Sugarcane-derived squalane: Fermentation of sugarcane generates squalene that is then hydrogenated to squalane. This is now the most common source for premium products and is fully scalable and renewable. • Amaranth seed oil: Also high in squalene content, an alternative plant source. How to verify: Look for brands that explicitly state 'sugarcane-derived' or 'plant-derived' squalane. Most major western cosmetic brands switched to plant-derived sources by 2020. Environmental comparison: Sugarcane-derived squalane has a significantly lower environmental footprint than shark-derived and is renewable. Brands using Bonsucro-certified Brazilian sugarcane are currently the most transparent about ethical sourcing.

Putting oil on oily skin seems backwards — but squalane is one of the best-tolerated options for oily and acne-prone skin. Why it works: Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon, not a triglyceride oil with fatty acid chains. It doesn't interact with follicular sebum the way linoleic or oleic acid-based oils do. Its comedogenic rating is 1 — the lowest of any oil used in cosmetics. Sebum regulation effect: When the skin is chronically stripped of its natural oils (by harsh cleansers, over-exfoliation, alcohol-based products), it responds by producing more sebum. Applying squalane provides the skin with a lipid signal that reduces the over-production response. Many oily-skin users find their sebum production normalises within 4–6 weeks of consistent squalane use. For acne-prone skin: Squalane is Malassezia-safe (important for fungal acne), does not contain fatty acids that feed C. acnes, and has mild anti-inflammatory properties. Best use for oily skin: 2–3 drops applied as the final PM step, or mixed into a lightweight gel moisturiser. In the AM, use sparingly (1 drop) if needed — most oily skin types prefer to skip it in the morning. If you are truly acne-prone with active breakouts: patch test on a small area for 2 weeks before full-face use. The vast majority of acne-prone skin tolerates squalane excellently, but individual variation exists.

Facial oils vary dramatically in their composition, skin compatibility, and best use cases: Squalane (comedogenic rating: 1): The gold standard for versatility. Suitable for all skin types. Stable, lightweight, no fatty acid oxidation risk. Rosehip Oil (rating: 1): High linoleic acid (77%). Excellent for hyperpigmentation, post-acne marks, and dry skin. Contains vitamin A precursors. Unstable — must be stored in a dark bottle in the refrigerator. Not suited for oily skin's AM routine. Jojoba Oil (rating: 2): Technically a liquid wax, not an oil. Closely mimics sebum composition. Good for all skin types. More stable than most oils. Argan Oil (rating: 0): Very low comedogenic rating. Rich in both oleic and linoleic acids. Excellent for dry, mature skin. Absorbs well. Coconut Oil (rating: 4): High in lauric acid. Despite heavy marketing as a skin 'superfood', it is one of the most comedogenic oils — avoid on the face for acne-prone skin. Marula Oil (rating: 3–4): High oleic acid content. Rich, nourishing for dry and mature skin. Too heavy for oily or acne-prone skin. Hemp Seed Oil (rating: 0): Very low comedogenic rating. High linoleic acid. Good for oily and acne-prone skin. Bottom line: For routine daily facial oil use for most skin types, squalane or jojoba are the safest starting points due to their low comedogenic ratings and stability.