The Golden Rule: Order Matters
Every cosmetic product sold in the EU must list ingredients using standardized INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names. Ingredients are listed in descending order by concentration.
Key rules:
• The first 5 ingredients usually make up 80%+ of the formula
• Active ingredients like niacinamide or salicylic acid are often in the top half
• Fragrance/parfum and preservatives are typically near the end (under 1%)
• Colorants (CI numbers) and potent actives like retinol are always near the end
• Ingredients below 1% can be listed in any order
Common INCI Names to Know
Many everyday ingredients have scientific-sounding names:
• Aqua = Water
• Ascorbic acid = Vitamin C
• Tocopherol = Vitamin E
• Retinol = Vitamin A
• Sodium hyaluronate = Hyaluronic acid (salt form)
• Niacinamide = Vitamin B3
• Butyrospermum parkii butter = Shea butter
• Helianthus annuus seed oil = Sunflower seed oil
• Caprylic/capric triglyceride = Coconut-derived emollient
Learning these translations helps demystify ingredient lists.
Red Flags to Watch For
While "clean beauty" marketing often overstates risks, some ingredients genuinely warrant caution:
• Denatured alcohol (alcohol denat.) high on the list — can be drying and irritating
• Heavy fragrance/parfum as one of the first ingredients — higher irritation risk for sensitive skin
• Multiple drying sulfates (SLS, SLES) in cleansers — strip the barrier
• Known allergens you are personally sensitive to
• Ingredients banned or restricted by the EU (use our checker to identify these)
Marketing vs. Reality
Be skeptical of front-label claims:
• "Dermatologist tested" — means a dermatologist tried it, not that it is recommended
• "Natural" / "Organic" — no legal definition in cosmetics; natural ingredients can still irritate
• "Chemical-free" — everything is a chemical, including water
• "Non-comedogenic" — not a regulated term; what clogs pores varies by individual
The ingredient list (back label) is the only legally binding and standardized information on the product.
How WhatsInSkincare Helps
Our AI-powered ingredient checker does the heavy lifting for you. Simply paste any ingredient list, and we will:
• Identify each ingredient and explain its function
• Flag EU-banned or restricted substances with explanations
• Assess overall safety based on current regulatory data
• Highlight key active ingredients and their benefits
• Show ingredient concentrations when available
Stop guessing about your skincare. Paste any ingredient list into our checker and get instant, science-backed analysis.
Decoding Preservatives: What Is Safe and What Is Not
Preservatives are essential in cosmetics — without them, water-containing products would grow mold and bacteria within days. But preservative sensitivity is real.
Safe and well-tolerated preservatives (EU-approved):
• Phenoxyethanol: Most common modern preservative. Safe at ≤1% per EU Annex V. Occasionally causes contact allergy in sensitive individuals.
• Sodium benzoate: Often combined with potassium sorbate. Safe at low concentrations in acidic formulas.
• Sodium levulinate / sodium anisate: Newer, naturally-derived preservatives. Gentle and effective.
• Ethylhexylglycerin: A mild preservative booster often combined with phenoxyethanol.
Preservatives to approach with caution:
• Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) alone in leave-on products: Banned in EU leave-on products since 2016 due to high sensitisation rates.
• Formaldehyde releasers (DMDM hydantoin, quaternium-15, imidazolidinyl urea): Banned or heavily restricted in EU; still legal in some US products.
Paraben recap: Methylparaben and propylparaben remain EU-approved at specific concentrations. Isopropyl-, isobutyl-, phenyl-, benzyl-, and pentylparaben are banned. Widespread 'paraben-free' marketing often replaces parabens with preservatives that may be no safer for most people.
Reading Fragrance and Allergen Disclosures
Fragrance is the most common cause of contact allergy in cosmetics. EU law requires 26 specific fragrance allergens to be individually listed on the ingredient label if they exceed 0.001% in leave-on products or 0.01% in rinse-off products.
What to look for: After the word 'parfum' or 'fragrance', look for specific allergen names. If you have a history of fragrance sensitivity, scan for: limonene, linalool, geraniol, cinnamal, eugenol, citronellol, farnesol.
Limonene and linalool are the most ubiquitous — they are present in enormous numbers of products due to their pleasant fresh and floral scent profiles. Both can oxidise in air and become potent sensitisers, making fresh product and airtight packaging important.
Fragrance-free vs. unscented: 'Fragrance-free' means no fragrance ingredients added. 'Unscented' may still contain masking fragrances that neutralise the smell of other ingredients — not the same thing for sensitive skin.
Natural fragrance: Essential oils are natural fragrance ingredients and contain the same sensitising compounds. Lavender oil contains linalool and linaool oxide. Citrus oils contain limonene. 'Natural fragrance' is not inherently safer than synthetic fragrance for reactive skin.





