Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as signalling molecules in the skin. They communicate with skin cells to perform specific functions — primarily stimulating collagen and elastin production. Different peptides have different functions, from anti-ageing to barrier repair.

• Signal Peptides – Tell skin cells to produce more collagen (e.g., Matrixyl, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4). • Carrier Peptides – Deliver trace minerals (like copper) to support enzyme functions (e.g., Copper Peptides GHK-Cu). • Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides – Mimic botox by relaxing facial muscles (e.g., Argireline). • Enzyme-Inhibitor Peptides – Slow down collagen breakdown.

Peptides are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. They are particularly beneficial for: • Mature skin needing collagen support. • Dehydrated skin needing barrier repair. • Anyone wanting preventative anti-ageing without irritation. • Post-procedure skin (laser, microneedling) to aid healing.

• Apply peptides to clean, damp skin before moisturiser. • Can be used both AM and PM. • Pairs well with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and ceramides. • Avoid using copper peptides and strong acids (AHAs/BHAs) in the same routine — they can degrade each other.

• 2–4 weeks: Improved hydration and skin plumpness. • 4–8 weeks: Visible reduction in fine lines. • 8–12 weeks: Firmer, more resilient skin. • Results are cumulative — consistent use is key. Benefits diminish after 4–6 weeks of discontinuation.

Not all peptides are created equal. What the strongest evidence supports: Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4): One of the most researched signal peptides. A 2005 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science showed Matrixyl stimulated collagen synthesis comparably to retinol without irritation. Human clinical studies demonstrated significant reduction in wrinkle depth after 2 months. Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3): A neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide that mimics Botox by inhibiting acetylcholine release, preventing muscle contraction and dynamic wrinkle formation. A 2002 study showed 10% argireline reduced wrinkle depth by 30% after 30 days. Efficacy is primarily around the eyes and forehead where dynamic expression lines form. Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu): Among the most clinically studied peptides in dermatology. Research published in the Journal of Biomaterials Science shows GHK-Cu promotes collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan production while simultaneously inhibiting collagen-degrading MMPs. Also has documented wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (Matrixyl 3000 component): Works synergistically with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the Matrixyl 3000 complex. The combination was shown in a 2009 study to reduce wrinkle volume by 45% compared to 21% for the individual peptides alone — a clear demonstration of peptide synergy. Caution: Do not combine copper peptides (GHK-Cu) with vitamin C or strong acids — the acidic environment detaches the copper ion from the peptide, rendering it inactive.

Peptides work best when used consistently within a well-structured routine. Layer order: Apply peptide serums after water-based toners and before moisturiser. Their molecular weight means they penetrate best before heavier occlusive layers are applied. AM or PM? Both. Peptides are light-stable and do not increase photosensitivity — unlike retinol or AHAs, they can safely be used morning and evening without sun-sensitivity concerns. Best combination partners: • Hyaluronic acid: A hydrated skin environment supports peptide receptor activity • Niacinamide (5%): Complementary barrier repair and collagen pathway support • Ceramides: Both support barrier integrity through different mechanisms • Retinol (on alternate days, different routine): Retinol and peptides address collagen loss through entirely different pathways — retinol via gene expression, peptides via signalling — making them highly complementary What to avoid mixing with peptides in the same step: • Strong AHAs/BHAs: Low pH may hydrolyse certain peptide bonds • Copper peptides (GHK-Cu) + vitamin C: The acidic environment reduces copper peptide efficacy Timeline for results: The collagen synthesis cycle takes 6–12 weeks. Most users notice skin plumpness and hydration improvements first (2–4 weeks), with visible line reduction and firmness improvement at 8–12 weeks. Take consistent before/after photos under identical lighting. Budget consideration: Peptide concentration matters more than brand prestige. Look for products where peptides appear in the first half of the INCI list — far too many 'peptide serums' contain trace amounts as a marketing tool with no real efficacy.

The comparison that comes up most often: retinol or peptides for anti-ageing? Short answer: use both, differently. Retinol: The gold standard for anti-ageing with decades of clinical evidence. Works by directly binding to nuclear receptors, altering gene expression to produce more collagen and increase cell turnover. Most effective anti-ageing ingredient available without prescription. Downside: significant irritation potential, increases sun sensitivity, not for pregnancy. Peptides: Work indirectly by signalling skin cells to behave as they did when younger. No irritation, no increased sun sensitivity, safe for all life stages including pregnancy. Weaker evidence base than retinol, but growing rapidly. Best viewed as complementary rather than a replacement. Who should choose peptides over retinol: • Sensitive skin that cannot tolerate retinol irritation • Pregnant or nursing (peptides are considered safe) • Those new to anti-ageing who want a gentle starting point • As a rest-day alternative during retinol adjustment period Ideal routine combining both: • Monday/Wednesday/Friday PM: Retinol • Tuesday/Thursday/Saturday PM: Peptide serum • Sunday PM: Recovery (ceramides only) • AM (every day): Vitamin C + peptide serum + SPF