Sunscreen Guide

Mineral vs chemical SPF — what to choose and why

Why SPF Matters Most

Sunscreen is the single most important step in any skincare routine. UV radiation (UVA and UVB) is responsible for up to 80% of visible skin ageing — wrinkles, pigmentation, loss of elasticity — and is the primary cause of skin cancer. No anti-ageing ingredient works as well as daily SPF.

Mineral (Physical) Sunscreens

Active ingredients: **Zinc Oxide** and **Titanium Dioxide**. • Sit on top of the skin and reflect/scatter UV rays. • Work immediately upon application — no wait time. • Broad spectrum (both UVA and UVB protection). • Zinc oxide at 15–25% is the best single ingredient for full UVA protection. • Can leave a white cast, especially on darker skin tones (micronised versions help). • Generally better for sensitive, acne-prone, and rosacea skin. • Reef-safe (Hawaii and Palau have banned chemical filters).

Chemical Sunscreens

Active ingredients: Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Octocrylene, Homosalate, Octisalate, Oxybenzone. • Absorb UV rays and convert them to heat, which is then released from the skin. • Need 15–20 minutes to form a protective film before sun exposure. • Generally cosmetically elegant — no white cast, lightweight textures. • Some ingredients (avobenzone) are unstable alone and require photostabilisers. • Oxybenzone and octinoxate are banned in some regions due to coral reef toxicity. • More likely to cause irritation or contact allergy in sensitive skin.

How to Choose

• **SPF 50+** for daily use — SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB, SPF 50 blocks 98%. • **Broad spectrum** (UVA + UVB protection) — look for PA++++ or a UVA circle logo. • **Normal/Oily skin**: lightweight chemical or hybrid formulas, gel or matte finish. • **Dry skin**: moisturising mineral or chemical formulas with added glycerin/ceramides. • **Sensitive/Rosacea**: mineral (zinc oxide) only — no chemical filters.p• **Darker skin tones**: micronised zinc or chemical filters — avoid white cast. • **Environmentally conscious**: mineral only or chemical filters without oxybenzone/octinoxate.

Application Tips

• Apply **1/4 teaspoon** to face and neck — most people apply half the required amount. • Apply to dry skin, **after moisturiser and before makeup**. • Chemical sunscreens: wait 15 minutes before sun exposure. • **Reapply every 2 hours** when exposed to direct sunlight. • Reapply sooner if swimming, sweating, or towel-drying. • Sunscreen expires — check the bottle for the expiration date. • UV penetrates clouds and windows — wear SPF indoors and on cloudy days.

EU vs US Sunscreen Standards

EU sunscreens offer superior UVA protection — they require UVA protection to be at least 1/3 of the SPF value. US sunscreens often lag behind in both ingredient innovation (newer filters like Tinosorb S/M, Uvinul A Plus, Mexoryl are not FDA-approved) and UVA standards. If you are in the US, consider European or Asian sunscreens for better UVA protection.