Skin Barrier Repair

Your skin barrier (stratum corneum) is damaged when its lipid structure is compromised. Common signs: • **Tightness, dehydration, flaking** — even after moisturising. • **Stinging or burning** when applying normal products. • **Redness and inflammation** — persistent or reactive. • **Increased breakouts** — not purging, but actual inflamed acne. • **Shiny, waxy appearance** — the skin looks "stripped." • **Texture changes** — rough, bumpy, or "crepey" skin. • **Products that used to feel fine now irritate**.

• **Over-exfoliation** — using AHA/BHA too frequently or at too high a concentration. • **Retinol misuse** — starting too strong, too often, without built-up tolerance. • **Harsh cleansers** — foaming cleansers with high-pH surfactants (SLS, SLES). • **Hot water** — washing face with hot water strips natural oils. • **Environmental factors** — cold, dry air; indoor heating; low humidity. • **Skin conditions** — eczema, rosacea, psoriasis inherently have weaker barriers. • **Over-washing** — cleansing more than 2x/day.

**Step 1: Stop ALL actives.** No retinol, no acids, no vitamin C, no exfoliation. For at least 2–4 weeks. **Step 2: Gentle cleansing only.** Use a non-foaming, cream or oil-based cleanser. Wash once daily (PM only) — rinse with lukewarm water in the AM. **Step 3: Barrier-supporting moisturiser.** Look for ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, squalane, shea butter, panthenol, and glycerin. **Step 4: Occlusive layer (optional).** Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly, Cicaplast, or LRP Cicaplast Baume B5 over moisturiser at night to seal everything in. **Step 5: SPF 50+ every single day.** A damaged barrier is more vulnerable to UV damage.

• **Ceramides 1, 3, 6-II** — rebuild the lipid matrix. • **Cholesterol** — essential for barrier structure (3:1:1 ratio with ceramides). • **Fatty Acids** (linoleic, oleic) — support lipid production. • **Panthenol (Provitamin B5)** — soothes and hydrates. • **Squalane** — lightweight, mimics skin's natural sebum. • **Niacinamide** — boosts ceramide synthesis and reduces inflammation. • **Allantoin, Bisabolol** — calming, anti-irritant. • **Centella Asiatica / Cica** — wound healing and anti-inflammatory. • **Oat** (colloidal oatmeal) — soothing for eczema and irritated skin.

• Mild damage: 2–4 weeks with consistent barrier-supporting routine. • Moderate damage: 4–8 weeks — requires strict avoidance of all actives. • Severe damage (eczema, chronic over-exfoliation): 8–12+ weeks — may need dermatologist-prescribed barrier repair creams. **Important**: Once healed, reintroduce actives ONE at a time, starting at the lowest frequency (1x/week) for 2 weeks before increasing.