Retinol
The gold standard anti-ageing ingredient — how to use it safely
What is Retinol?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A (retinoid) used in skincare to accelerate cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. It is one of the most researched and effective anti-ageing ingredients available over the counter.
How Does It Work?
Retinol penetrates the skin and converts to retinoic acid (the active form) through enzymatic processes. Retinoic acid binds to nuclear receptors in skin cells, signalling them to behave like younger, healthier cells — increasing collagen synthesis and normalising cell turnover.
Who Should Use It?
Anyone looking to address signs of photoageing (fine lines, uneven tone, texture) or acne. It is suitable for most skin types when introduced gradually. Those with sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea should start with a low concentration (0.25%–0.3%) and build tolerance.
How to Introduce Retinol
• Start with 2–3 nights per week, then increase gradually over 4–6 weeks.
• Use the "sandwich method": moisturiser → retinol → moisturiser to reduce irritation.
• Always apply to dry skin — damp skin increases absorption and irritation risk.
• Use only in your PM routine — retinol degrades in sunlight.
What to Avoid Combining
• Do not use with other retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, retinaldehyde).
• Avoid combining with AHAs/BHAs in the same routine — alternate nights instead.
• Benzoyl peroxide can oxidise and degrade retinol — use at different times.
• Vitamin C is fine in the AM, but avoid layering with retinol in the same PM routine.
Side Effects & Purging
Common early side effects include dryness, peeling, redness, and breakouts (the "retinol purge"). These are normal and typically subside within 4–6 weeks. If severe, reduce frequency or concentration and increase barrier-supporting moisturiser use. Always wear SPF 50+ daily — retinol increases photosensitivity.