Exfoliation 101

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface. There are two types: chemical (using acids or enzymes) and physical (scrubs, brushes). Chemical exfoliation is generally gentler and more controlled than physical.

AHAs are water-soluble acids that work on the skin's surface. They are best for dry, sun-damaged, or dull skin. Common AHAs: • Glycolic Acid (small molecule, most potent, best for anti-ageing) • Lactic Acid (larger molecule, gentler, also hydrating) • Mandelic Acid (largest, best for sensitive skin) • Start with 5–10%, 2–3x/week.

Salicylic Acid is the only common BHA. It is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate deep into pores to clear sebum and debris. Best for oily, acne-prone, or congested skin. Use 0.5–2%, 2–3x/week.

• Normal skin: 2–3x/week • Oily/acne-prone: up to 3–4x/week with BHA • Dry/sensitive: 1–2x/week with gentle AHA (lactic or mandelic) • Retinoid users: reduce to 1x/week or stop exfoliation during retinoid adjustment (first 4–6 weeks) More is NOT better — over-exfoliation damages the skin barrier.

• Redness, stinging, burning sensation • Shiny, waxy appearance (stripped barrier) • Increased breakouts (not purging — actual breakouts) • Dehydrated, tight, peeling skin • Products that normally feel fine now sting If you notice these, stop all exfoliation and focus on barrier repair (gentle cleanser, moisturiser, SPF) for 2–4 weeks.