Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like wheat, barley, and rye. It has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and keratolytic properties, making it effective for acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. It is available over the counter in 10% concentrations and by prescription at 15–20%.

• Kills acne-causing bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis) • Reduces inflammation — excellent for inflammatory acne and rosacea pustules • Inhibits melanin production — fades post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma • Normalises follicular keratinisation — prevents clogged pores • Antioxidant properties — neutralises free radicals • Safe during pregnancy (unlike retinol and salicylic acid)

Azelaic acid is especially beneficial for: • Acne-prone skin (including fungal acne — it is Malassezia-safe) • Rosacea (reduces redness, papules, and pustules) • Hyperpigmentation and melasma • Sensitive skin (it is very well tolerated) • Pregnant or nursing women (one of the few actives considered safe) It is suitable for all skin types and rarely causes irritation.

• Apply after cleansing and before moisturiser, AM or PM. • Start once daily, then increase to twice daily if tolerated. • Can be used with most other actives: niacinamide, vitamin C, retinol (in different routines). • Do not use with other exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA) in the same session. • It can cause mild itching or tingling for the first few minutes — this is normal and subsides. • Sunscreen is essential — azelaic acid does not increase photosensitivity but PIH prevention requires SPF.