Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Excellent corticosteroid-mimetic anti-inflammatory without steroid side effects. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate (licorice root-derived) inhibits 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (11β-HSD), amplifying local cortisol activity at the site of application, and inhibits phospholipase A2, blocking arachidonic acid release from membrane phospholipids. This dual mechanism delivers corticosteroid-mimetic anti-inflammatory potency without skin-thinning, telangiectasia, and adrenal suppression risks of topical steroids. The stearyl ester form provides superior skin penetration vs water-soluble glycyrrhizin. Effective at 0.2–1% in leave-on formulations. Not restricted in EU or US.

Permitted; no US concentration cap. Ester of stearyl alcohol and glycyrrhetinic acid (licorice root). Effective at 0.2–1% in leave-on formulations as anti-inflammatory and steroid-sparing cosmetic active.