Active Compound

Sodium Hydroxide. *From Lactic Acid.

alkali; cuticle-swelling agent; disulfide bond-breaking agent (lanthionization); pH modifier
Limited Data
Insufficient safety data available. Consider enriching this ingredient.
Details

Description

alkali; cuticle-swelling agent; disulfide bond-breaking agent (lanthionization); pH modifier

Purpose

Function

alkali; cuticle-swelling agent; disulfide bond-breaking agent (lanthionization); pH modifier
Profile

Properties

Silicone
Silicone free
Compliance

Regulatory Status

EU
Restricted
Safety
POOR
US
Restricted
EU Max ConcentrationAnnex III entry 25: max 3.0% as hair straightener in professional products; max 2.0% in general consumer products; pH limits apply. Not for children.
Absorptionhigh
Sensitizationhigh
MoSnot established
ConcernHigh
Verdict

Sodium hydroxide lye relaxers operate at pH 12–14, swelling the cuticle and allowing hydroxide ion to penetrate the cortex where it breaks disulfide bonds via lanthionization—a permanent, irreversible chemical change. Extreme alkalinity causes chemical burns and scalp lesions that significantly enhance percutaneous absorption of co-formulants. NIEHS Sister Study (2022) found HR 2.55 for uterine cancer in frequent users. JNCI 2026 follow-up found HR 2.66 for pancreatic cancer, HR 1.71 for thyroid cancer, and HR 1.62 for non-Hodgkin's lymphoma. Epidemiological signal is strong; causal pathway likely includes co-formulant absorption (formaldehyde-releasers, parabens, phthalates, BPA, metals) through burn-damaged scalp. Disproportionate risk burden on Black and African American women, many starting use in childhood/adolescence. EU Annex III restricts concentration and mandates professional use for higher-concentration products.

US Note

Permitted in hair relaxer formulations as active at pH 12–14. NIEHS Sister Study (2022, EPH) found women using chemical straighteners ≥4x/year faced HR 2.55 for uterine cancer. JNCI 2026 follow-up linked frequent use to pancreatic cancer (HR 2.66), thyroid cancer (HR 1.71), and NHL (HR 1.62). FDA has not yet issued a formal ban but cancer findings have triggered significant regulatory and litigation scrutiny.

Assessment

Ratings

Comedogenic0/5
LowHigh
Irritancy1/5
LowHigh
Reference

Identifiers

Category
Active Compound
Updated
Apr 23, 2026

No registry identifiers available for this ingredient.