Niacinamide Polypeptide
Description
Melanosome transfer inhibitor; vitamin B3 amide; inhibits transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes (35–68% inhibition in coculture); also reduces keratinocyte PGE2 production and AGE formation, both of which stimulate melanosome transfer; does not affect tyrosinase catalytic activity
Function
Properties
Regulatory Status
Workhorse brightening active with best-in-class safety and mechanistically unique position: inhibits melanosome transfer (not tyrosinase), making it complementary to every tyrosinase inhibitor and enabling additive combination formulas. 35–68% reduction in melanosome transfer in coculture models. Additionally reduces PGE2 and AGE formation that drive melanosome transfer. Japan quasi-drug since 2007. No EU or US restrictions at any cosmetic concentration. 2025 clinical data (Nature Sci Rep RCT): TXA 5% + niacinamide 4% combination outperformed 4% HQ for melasma with significantly fewer adverse reactions. Essential ingredient in any brightening formulation.
No FDA concentration restriction. Used at 2–10% in OTC brightening and barrier products without drug classification concerns. Not listed in OTC skin-bleaching monograph (21 CFR 310.545). Generally recognised as safe in dietary context; topical cosmetic use unrestricted.
Ratings
Identifiers
No registry identifiers available for this ingredient.