active

Azelaic Acid

Also known as AzelaicAcid
INCI: AZELAIC ACID
CAS 123-99-9 EC 204-669-1
Nonanedioic acid
Limited Data
Insufficient safety data available. Consider enriching this ingredient.
Details

Description

Nonanedioic acid

Purpose

Function

Reversible tyrosinase inhibitor; selective antiproliferative and cytotoxic agent against abnormal hyperactive melanocytes while sparing normally pigmented cells; anti-inflammatory; anti-keratinization; antibacterial (P. acnes)
Profile

Properties

Silicone
Silicone free
Compliance

Regulatory Status

EU
Permitted
Safety
EXCELLENT
US
Permitted
Absorptionhigh
Sensitizationnone
MoSadequate
NOAEL1000 mg/kg
ConcernNone
Flags
tyrosinase-inhibitorbrighteningselective-melanocyte-targetingno-leukoderma-riskanti-inflammatorypge2-reductionantibacterialpihmelasmafitzpatrick-iv-vi-preferredrx-15pct-finacearx-20pct-azelexcosmetic-to-10pctnatural-originendogenouseu-unrestrictedno-us-cosmetic-restrictionendocrine_disruptor
Verdict

Highly versatile depigmenting active with selective targeting of hyperactive abnormal melanocytes while sparing normally pigmented cells, eliminating leukoderma risk. Dual action of reversible tyrosinase inhibition and anti-inflammatory PGE2 reduction is particularly valuable for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and darker skin types. US Rx at 15-20%; cosmetic brightening at 10% or less is effective and unrestricted in both EU and US. Endogenous naturally occurring compound with excellent safety profile.

US Note

Prescription drug at 15% (Finacea — rosacea) and 20% (Azelex — acne/hyperpigmentation). Cosmetic use at 10% or less permitted under FD&C Act without drug classification. Drug claims (treating rosacea, acne) at any concentration trigger FDA drug classification regardless of concentration.

Assessment

Ratings

Comedogenic1/5
LowHigh
Irritancy0/5
LowHigh
Reference

Identifiers

CAS Number
123-99-9
EC Number
204-669-1
INCI
AZELAIC ACID
Category
active
Updated
Apr 2, 2026