Active Compound

Acetylsalicylic Acid

Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) exfoliant, keratolytic, and anti-acne active. Oil-soluble unlike AHAs, enabling penetration into sebaceous follicles and dissolution of intercellular lipids — the gold standard for acne and comedonal exfoliation. Optimal pH 3.0–4.0 for professional peels (typically 20–30%). Also has anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial properties. At 0.5% functions as a cosmetic preservative.
Limited Data
Insufficient safety data available. Consider enriching this ingredient.
Details

Description

Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) exfoliant, keratolytic, and anti-acne active. Oil-soluble unlike AHAs, enabling penetration into sebaceous follicles and dissolution of intercellular lipids — the gold standard for acne and comedonal exfoliation. Optimal pH 3.0–4.0 for professional peels (typically 20–30%). Also has anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial properties. At 0.5% functions as a cosmetic preservative.

Purpose

Function

Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) exfoliant, keratolytic, and anti-acne active. Oil-soluble unlike AHAs, enabling penetration into sebaceous follicles and dissolution of intercellular lipids — the gold standard for acne and comedonal exfoliation. Optimal pH 3.0–4.0 for professional peels (typically 20–30%). Also has anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial properties. At 0.5% functions as a cosmetic preservative.
Profile

Properties

Silicone
Silicone free
Compliance

Regulatory Status

EU
Restricted
Safety
GOOD
US
Permitted
EU Max Concentration2.0% general cosmetics (non-leave-on); 3.0% rinse-off hair products; 0.5% body lotion, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, lipstick, non-spray deodorant. Not for use in products for children under 3 years (except shampoo). Not for oral products or inhalation products. pH ≥3.5 required.
Absorptionhigh
Sensitizationlow
MoSadequate
NOAEL75 mg/kg
ConcernLow
Verdict

Salicylic acid is the definitive BHA for acne, congestion, and oily skin. Lipophilicity is a genuine differentiator from AHAs — no other common cosmetic acid penetrates sebaceous follicles as effectively. EU concentration limits by product type require careful label compliance. US OTC vs cosmetic drug boundary demands precise claim management. Eye and lip product use must not exceed 0.5%. Not for children under 3 years.

US Note

FDA OTC Monograph M006: 0.5–2.0% GRASE for topical acne drug products. Classified as an OTC drug (not cosmetic) when acne disease claims are made — requires drug labelling, GMP, NDC number. When marketed for exfoliation only without acne claims, may remain cosmetic. FDA scrutinises intended use classification carefully.

Assessment

Ratings

Comedogenic0/5
LowHigh
Irritancy1/5
LowHigh
Reference

Identifiers

Category
Active Compound
Updated
Apr 23, 2026

No registry identifiers available for this ingredient.